See things differently from a sea kayak

If you have come to the West Highlands seeking an escape, there can be no sound more welcome than the gentle swish of your own oar cutting through the water, the only disturbance on an otherwise empty horizon – empty apart from fellow explorers paddling behind you, at least.

Sea kayaking is growing in popularity, as travellers increasingly value an activity that combines nature and exercise in a setting that you can move through without leaving even a footprint behind.

On a grey day in late spring, Holiday West Highland decided to give it a try.

“You’re learning to kayak at the perfect time,” our guide told us, as we huffed and puffed, dragging our kayaks over slippery rocks to the Loch Linnhe shore: “there are plenty of places to explore, but the sport is still catching on here, so the best spots haven’t got too crowded.”

Our experience began with a safety briefing, including the all-important capsize drill, when we were assured that we would not be forced to roll our vessels if we did not want to.

While this claim was true, I still managed to tip over within minutes, and though the chill of contact with the water took my breath away, the dry suit kept everything but hands and head warm, and I was rescued so quickly and calmly that the incident was quickly forgotten.

I have passed Castle Stalker from the road many times, but rounding the coastline to approach and then circle it by sea, the fortress took on a new mystique. We stopped for lunch on a bluebell-covered island just a few feet away from it, and felt like adventurers encountering an undiscovered treasure for the first time – even the resident Canada goose seemed unconcerned by our presence.

The sense of being at one with wildlife continued throughout our trip – at one point a seal popped its head out of the water and bobbed up and down on the waves, watching us pass. There was no doubt he had seen us, but our presence didn’t seem to bother him in the slightest.

Physically, paddling was fairly demanding, and our arms and legs were slightly stiff the next morning, but I was assured that there would be far less impact as my technique improved. I struggled with technical basics like steering and turning at the start of the day, but it only took a few hours – and gentle pointers – to build my confidence to the extent that as we lugged our kayaks back to the trailer, I was already planning the next expedition.

Rock pooling, West Highland style

Make a splash with a holiday on the rocks.

A holiday in the west Highlands guarantees some wonderful wildlife encounters, and if you are near the coast, whether on the mainland, or on one of the windswept islands of the Hebrides, there are plenty of remarkable locations where you can enjoy nature hands on.

There are few more rewarding ways for a family to get to know its surroundings than an afternoon spent pottering around rock pools on the beach, and the clean waters and distinctive climate of this region ensure that the waters are teeming with life, if you have time to look for it.

So dig out that dented old plastic beach bucket, it’s time to embark on a mini marine adventure.

What you need

There aren’t many absolute essentials. Clear buckets or Tupperwares are a good idea for viewing your finds, as well as sturdy shoes (not flip-flops) for walking across those potentially painful, limpet -encrusted rocks. Environmentalists recommend using your hands, rather than a net, to catch fish, as nets can do damage fragile habitats.

A sea life guide book (such as the RSPB Handbook of the Seashore) will be handy to help you identify different species, particularly if you lose your broadband signal or accidentally send your mobile phone for a swim with the crabs.

What you could find

Some of the most common species include anemones, shrimps, star fish, limpets, flatworms and several different species of crab – keep an eye out for hermit crabs living in other creatures’ shells. You might be lucky and catch a fish such as a blenny, a goby, or even a Lumpsucker.

Safety

Rockpooling can be so fascinating that it’s easy to lose track of time and place, but it’s important to bear in mind a few rules to ensure that no harm comes to you or your environment.

  • Make sure you know where you are and how to get back to base. Tell someone where you are going and when you will be back, and keep other people in sight if you can.
  • Make sure you know when the tide will turn and leave plenty of time for your return walk. Don’t go rock pooling anywhere where there is any chance of getting cut off by the sea.
  • Protect your rock pool finds by returning them to the pools they were collected from. If you lift rocks and seaweed, put them back in their original position, or as close to it as you can.

Crabs

Catching a good-sized crab is a badge if success for all rock poolers, and a guarantee of respect for the parent brave and shrewd enough to find one. There are plenty to be found on these shores, and bacon, preferably well past its use-by date, makes great bait.

Where to go

Find a rocky shoreline and wait for low tide. The richest pickings are usually found closest to the sea in the inter-tidal zone, the part of the shore which is covered by sea at high tide and exposed at low tide. Look out for shady, sheltered spots, and patterns in the sand which can be an indication that something interesting lurks beneath.

Any west coast or Hebridean shoreline is likely to have its share of lively rock pools, each with their own characteristics.

The best way to find the best spots is to ask the locals, in the meantime, here are some of our favourites to get you started.

Ganavan, north of Oban: This popular beach can be reached on foot or by bus from the main town. The main sandy shore has wonderful views and can be busy, but the rocky patches at its edges are dotted with pools. There are a handful of smaller beaches and coves (accessible by footpath) before you reach the main Ganavan beach which are quieter and make even better shelters for sea life, hermit crabs in particular.

Horgabost, Isle of Harris: The Isle of Harris is famous for its Caribbean-style beaches, with Luskentyre in particular well known. Horgabost, in South Harris, is as beautiful, has more rocky patches and attracts fewer human visitors, though the clean waters ensure plenty of marine activity. If you are in the Western Isles, Mealasta beach, near Uig, is worth visiting for its large pools too.

Calgary Beach, Isle of Mull: It’s particularly difficult to select the best rock pooling beach on Mull, as the majority of the island’s rocky coves make perfect foraging territory. Calgary Beach on the north-west coast earns our recommendation because otters can occasionally be spotted on the shore here. Though they may not fit in a bucket, a sighting of one is bound to make any rock pooler’s day. Species that you can find and pick up here include starfish, jellyfish and even squat lobsters.

The Silver Sands of Morar: this collection of white sandy beaches, between Arisaig and Morar, boast spectacular views out to the Small Isles of Rum, Eigg, Muck and Canna. The sea is shallow and the rock pools are plentiful, and packed with whelks, mussels, shrimps and a variety of crustaceans.

Tralee, Benderloch: The crescent of Tralee Bay is edged with rocky patches and rock pools which can repay closer examination. The maroon beadlet sea anemones which cling to the rocks are fascinating to watch and photograph. The beach is on the edge of Loch Linnhe, a sea loch which is known to be home to the rare and spectacular fireworks anemone.