From Gigha’s vibrant Achamore Gardens to the celebrated Benmore, and the exotic treats of Crarae, Argyll’s gardens are more than just a pretty setting – each has its own story to tell. 

It takes a man of passion to make a bold romantic gesture, and it doesn’t get much more romantic than Sir James Horlick’s tribute to his wife, Flora.

In 1931, twenty years after they were married, the war hero, hot drinks tycoon, and compulsive horticulturalist cultivated a new rhododendron, perhaps the finest in an already fine collection, and named in it her honour.

Today, the colourful ‘Mrs James Horlick’ can be seen on display at Achamore Gardens, at the couple’s former home on the Isle of Gigha.

It is a striking, hardy shrub, with eye-catching pink and white flowers that bloom in late spring. More than sixty years after her death in 1952, it remains one of the most popular plants in the collection, and one can’t help but wonder which of its characteristics the woman who inspired it shared.

Achamore Gardens was created by Sir James in the years after the Second World War. It is the jewel in the crown of the little, community-owned island of Gigha (which is a twenty minute ferry trip away from Tayinloan on the Kintyre peninsular).

The London-based baronet bought the estate in 1944, partly to provide a home for the already burgeoning Horlick Rhododendron Collection, and to enable him to grow more delicate species such as the white rhododendron maddennii, in its mild, virtually frost-free climate.

Building the garden was a challenge, but a rewarding one, as Sir James explained at a meeting of the Royal Horticultural Society in 1942. “I can only tell you that creating a garden out of this mess has given me the most enjoyable twenty years of my life, and certainly the busiest.”

Though it is constantly evolving, the site of which Sir James was so proud retains many original plants and features. Its highlights are the sunrise-hued azalea, camellia and rhododendron that he prized, but in the 50 acres of woodland and walled garden, there are plenty other of rare and interesting species to enjoy – thanks partly to a band of local volunteers who help maintain the grounds.

Achamore Gardens is just one of a cohort of spectacular public gardens in Scotland’s west highlands. Scenic hideaways in an already scenic land, their prevalence in this rocky landscape may come as something of a surprise.

The western highlands are among the wettest, and sometimes stormiest, places in Europe – but visit any village in Argyll in late spring and you wade through the confetti of a hundred bright blooms.

The damp conditions and acidic soil in this rainy tip of Britain team with the warming influence of the Gulf Stream (an oceanic current) to recreate conditions not dissimilar to those found in the Himalayas. Thanks to the sheer pluck of the plant hunters who ventured into uncharted territory to source their plants and seeds, this has become rhododendron country.

The comparison with more exotic locations is particularly apt at Crarae, a National Trust for Scotland garden near Inveraray, on the banks of Loch Fyne, where water cascades down a steep glen bordered with vibrant species native to more humid lands.

Dubbed ‘Scotland’s Himalayan Gorge’, this garden owes more a handful of individual species to the influence of East Asia.

Its creator was Grace, Lady Campbell (the wife of the 5^th baronet Archibald Campbell of Succoth) a gifted gardener with a particularly useful family connection – she was the maternal aunt of the audacious botanist Reginald Farrer, who spent much of his career collecting specimens in the mountains of Japan, China, and even Korea and Tibet.

From 1912 on, Lady Campbell began to establish the garden framework, introducing ornamental planting close to the family home at Crarae Lodge, and establishing woodland footpaths, with her famous nephew contributing some of the spoils of his adventures, including alpines, rhododendron and eucalyptus, and almost certainly lending his advice and expertise, particularly with regards to the rock garden, his specialism.

As Lady Campbell worked to exhibit Crarae’s international assets, a few miles west, on the Isle of Seil, a very different garden was set to be created, influenced by events and industry much closer to home.

In the early 1930s, Faith Celli, an English actress well-known for her performances on the London stage, came to Scotland to visit the empty distillery cottage that her husband, the politician and cavalry officer, Colonel Arthur Murray, had inherited.

The bleak coastal site must have seemed very isolated after the whirlwind of London society the wavy-haired Tatler cover girl, star of hit plays such as Dear Brutus and Peter Pan, would have been used to, but perhaps that was exactly she and her husband were looking for.

The Murrays kept the cottage and bought the neighbouring ones as well, and engaged the services of Thomas Mawson, the leading garden designer of the age, to transform what was unkempt hillside, into An Cala, a work of art in which many of the original trees and shrubs, including a mass of flowering cherries and azaleas, still thrive. (An Cala is closed for the 2016 season)

Where some would see the hillside setting as an obstacle, Mawson’s design embraced it, creating a series of terraces which became distinctive mini gardens, each with its own view across the sea to the Hebrides beyond – one was to become a rose garden, another contained a pool.

The Murrays’ arrival on the Isle of Seil came at a challenging time for the area, which had for the previous century been a hub of Scotland’s slate industry. Their garden project not only provided employment for former slate workers, it paid homage to the island’s critical resource, with its paths and the terrace walls made from Easdale slate.

Faith Celli was only to enjoy her garden for a short while, she died in 1942, just after a decade after it had been completed, but her husband, who kept extensive photographic and horticultural records, and subsequent owners, have continued to nurture and develop this exceptional outdoor space.

Scotland’s 20^th century gardens owe much to the personalities who threw their energies into creating them, but there are also magnificent woodland gardens with their roots much further in the past, and their ambassadors are characters even more enchanting than those previously described.

Enter the vast Benmore Botanic Gardens, near Dunoon, and you find yourself dwarfed by an avenue of Giant Redwoods – and they are just the start of what this vast garden has to offer. The seeds of these majestic sentries were among the first of their kind to arrive in Britain, more than 150 years ago.

Explore the snaking paths around Ardkinglas Woodland Gardens, at the head of Loch Fyne, and you enter the world of Julia Donaldson’s celebrated picture book, The Gruffalo – the theme for a recently opened trail which has turned an already magical location into an accessible and entertaining family day out.

The fictional characters (a mouse, a fox, a snake and an owl) share their new home with real red squirrels a collection of champion trees, including a Grand Fir which is the tallest in Scotland.

The elder statesman among these trees is the charismatic Abies alba, a European Silver Fir with a girth of nearly ten metres and a remarkable four-trunked form, probably developed as a result of poor early management.

Thought to have been planted in the late 1700s, it was reported as “the mightiest conifer in Europe” back in 1905 – before the first spade sliced peat to create some of the other, now historic, gardens described above.

The remarkable trees of Ardkinglas are overlooked by an inspired recent addition to these gardens that helps put its senior citizens’ worth into perspective. The scriptorium, a gazebo-like structure on the hillside, is made from Argyll Oak, engraved with a selection of stirring quotes, from sources ranging from Spike Milligan to the bible, about trees.

One of the most direct, from Voltaire, reads “Il faut cultiver notre jardin” or “We must cultivate our garden.” It might have been written as a mantra for the West Highlands’ green fingered architects whose labours still bring so much pleasure today.

• Benmore, Crarae and Ardkinglas Gardens are part of the Scotland’s Gardens scheme, which raises money for charity by opening gardens of horticultural interest to the public. www.scotlandsgardens.org

The pitter patter of two pairs of tiny feet is cause for a special celebration, but with that joy comes extra anxiety – a fact which has led twin parents in Argyll to set up their own support group.

Multiple pregnancies carry an increased likelihood of prematurity and illness for the babies, and a greater risk of post-natal depression for mothers. In a rural location, those challenges can be compounded by isolation and a lack of facilities.

“Babies are very demanding in the early stages, and tackling two unhappy, crying babies on your own can be stressful, especially in the public eye,” explains Laura O’Donnell, who is mum to ten-month-olds Evan and Grace. “The twin group is great for me and my children – it means I can get out and socialise confidently with people who also have ‘double trouble’ to contend with.”

Visit the group, which meets monthly in the Early Learning Centre facility at Oban’s Park Primary School, and you quickly gain a sense of the juggling act that can be twin parenting.

Crayons, blocks and sensory fabrics are scattered as matching toddlers wobble and climb in opposite directions, and one baby demands feeding as its sibling requires a nappy change.

There’s a sense of camaraderie though, and a pair of hands can always be found to give a bottle, a cuddle, or make the tea.

Mums started the group earlier this year with the aim of providing some peer support, particularly in the intense early days. While there are twin clubs in towns across Scotland, there was nothing nearby to connect multiple parents.

There is plenty of chat about toddler quirks and the best twin-friendly gadgets, but swapping experiences is central, particularly as many twin families share traumatic early days – almost half of twins born in the UK need some special hospital care.

“My babies were eight weeks early and spent three weeks in special care,” says Leanne Stewart, mum to one year olds Callum and Alyssa. “I had one baby home before the other which I was not prepared for at all. The guilt of leaving Callum still eats at me today.”

Laura’s twins were also premature, arriving six weeks before their due date. They needed to be in the hospital’s special care unit initially, but an improvement in Grace’s condition meant they were separated.

“Grace started coming on leaps and bounds, so she came up on the ward with me,” she says, “but Evan was still struggling with feeding. The hospital told me to leave with Grace the next day and I just about cried that whole day and night.

“Amazingly Evan made such a huge improvement with his feeding that day and during the night that the doctors allowed him to leave with us, thank goodness.”

“Getting told we could take them home on day 15 was amazing,” says Fiona Elder, from Lochgilphead, whose eight-month-old twins Seamus and Jock were born seven weeks early and spent the first week of their lives in incubators. “It meant the next chapter of the journey could begin.”

Alongside the challenges, twin mums and dads also share the excitement of their children’s interactions, whether it’s holding hands and giggling together for the first time, or swapping pieces of their dinners. “All the nice things, like smiles and cuddles, are doubled,” says Leanne.

Seona Laird, mum to Andrew and Alexander, agrees. “I feel so lucky to have two,” she says. “There are enough cuddles for everyone. It’s double the joy when you watch one smile, and then after a while you see the other one smile too.”

The fact that many of the twins at the group had fragile starts to their their lives, makes the celebration of each first step all the happier. “The best thing about being a twin mum is knowing I’ve raised two healthy babies,” says Laura. “We had these teeny newborns in incubators with tubes and wires, and now I have two strong, happy little people – its such an amazing feeling.”

Help and information about twins and multiples is available from www.tamba.org

For more information about the twin group in Argyll, contact argylltwins@hotmail.com

A small visitor centre on the scenic banks of Loch Awe is all that hints at the feat that is Cruachan Power Station, but step inside it, and you embark on a journey into another world beyond.

Cruachan, which celebrated its 50^th anniversary in 2015, remains one of the country’s most remarkable engineering achievements. It combines a dam and reservoir high above the mountain with a pumped storage power station deep within the hollowed-out rock beneath it.

During times when there is a surplus of electricity, water is gradually pumped from the loch to the reservoir on the mountainside, then, when demand is at its peak, Cruachan roars to life, as water is released, plummeting through the mountain to power the turbines below.

A visit to Cruachan’s heart is much more than a science lesson – it’s an opportunity to experience a setting that is unique.

From the dark and eerie humidity of the mile-long entrance tunnel, to the station’s hub, the vast cavern of the turbine hall, every element here is on a scale so grand that it feels cinematic – an observer could be forgiven for thinking that they were on the set of a science-fiction film.

And what better antidote to time spent underground, than to be dazzled by the daylight at the centre’s café. Decorated with photographs of the excavations and tunnel workers of the past, it boasts spectacular views across Loch Awe, and the chance to encounter some of the wonderful local wildlife, which can include osprey and eagles.

The service is friendly, and the food reasonably priced and locally sourced – the soups are particularly tasty. Scones, baked fresh on the premises each morning, are another highlight.

The attached free exhibition (with activities for children including the chance to dress up as an engineer) is well worth a look.

While it’s unlikely that there will be leftovers, if you do leave a few crumbs on your plate, the staff will recycle them on the bird tables outside, where you can watch as a lovely array of garden birds – and maybe even the resident pine marten – pop by to pick up a quick snack of their own.

Cruachan is open from February to December. For opening times go to www.visitcruachan.co.uk

With its romantic lochside location, striking conical turrets and elegant arched windows, Inveraray castle could be the setting for a Disney fairytale, though in fact its most recent claim to fame is on the small screen, as the location for 2012’s Downton Abbey Christmas special.

The Grantham’s visit to the stately home, which appeared in the ITV drama as the fictional Duneagle Castle, featured its impressive armoury hall and lavish state dining room, but while the script placed Lady Cora and her peers in these grand spaces, the real lady of the house, Eleanor, the Duchess of Argyll, is as likely to be found below stairs working in the castle tea room.

A granite mansion set on the shores of Loch Fyne, Inveraray castle is the seat of the Campbell clan, and the estate the town of Inveraray was built to serve. There has been a fortress on the site for at least six centuries, with the current building started in 1746, though it has been devastated by fire and restored twice since.

While there is much to see in the gothic-style main castle, the basement tea room, with its black and white floor tiles and original vaulted ceilings, has a distinctive, simpler character, as well as its own laundry-maid ghost. Light floods in through the high windows, and the wooden furniture and wood-burning stove create a country kitchen feel (though not many country kitchens can boast a giant Jolomo painting on the wall.)

It’s hard to pinpoint whether it is down to the duchess’ involvement, but this castle tearoom has far more heart, and is better value than your average cafe attached to a tourist attraction. Crucially, it serves good, well-presented food, in which the owners take interest and pride.

“I’m very fussy about where we get our ingredients from and like to have as much local and Scottish produce as we can,” says the duchess.

“Argyll is an amazing part of the world for ingredients and we like to shout about it. We have salmon from Inverawe, Mull cheddars, Arran cheeses and ice creams, and local ham. All our baking is either in house or from within a handful of miles.”

The family who live in and run Inveraray Castle are hands on in their approach to opening their home, and when it comes to the tea room, there’s an extra appeal in speculating if the Duke of Argyll really did devise the Duke’s Special hot chocolate (apparently a favourite with his three children) or if one of today’s cakes was baked by the Duchess. That extra chocolatey millionaire shortbread perhaps.

Info: Inveraray Castle Tea room, open daily, from Easter to October. Tea room visitors do not need to pay castle entry fees, though there is a parking charge (redeemable in the tea room or gift shop).

Getting there: Take the A82 from Glasgow to Loch Lomond, then the A83 to Inveraray.

Tea tip: Earn your cuppa, or exercise it off, with a steep walk up to the Dun na Cuaiche watchtower. Signed from the castle grounds, it offers beautiful views of the estate and surrounding landscape.

This review was first published on the HeraldScotland website in 2013. Updates have been made since.

Congratulations to St Conan’s Kirk, Lochawe, which has been listed as one of the best Scottish buildings of the last century – and could yet be voted the favourite (vote here).

The enigmatic lochside church has been named alongside buildings as diverse as the former tyre factory India of Inchinnan, and the War Memorial and Cowdray Hall in Aberdeen, as part of the national Festival of Architecture celebrations.

As a result, it will feature in Scotstyle, an illustrated book celebrating 100 of the country’s best buildings from the last 100 years (from 1916 on) and will be part of a touring exhibition celebrating Scottish architecture. Members of the public can vote for their favourite building, with the winner due to be announced as part of the festival’s finale in November.

Explaining the shortlisting, the festival website describes St Conan’s as: “an extraordinary, eclectic church of considerable charm…The approach from the road provides few clues to the originality of the loch-facing frontage or the church’s interior richness.”

The honour is a particularly deserved one for supporters of the church, which although an enduringly popular visitor attraction, is under threat because of the huge cost of restoration and repair.

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Local volunteers have been working hard to raise funds, with successful initiatives including a Christmas Tree festival and Kirk Cafe, but their motivation has been tested by several separate thefts of building’s remarkable lead roofing (it’s hoped that a new CCTV system will ensure there are no more).

St Conan’s borrows from a variety of historic architectural styles, particularly Roman and Norman, but in fact was only completed in 1930.

• Find out more about St Conan’s Kirk in the Riches at the Roadside feature.
• Click here to Vote for St Conan’s in the Festival of Architecture www.foa2016.com.

The bluebells are out across Argyll, and there can be no better time to visit.

From roadsides to riversides, gardens and glades, the county is studded with beautiful blue – and where the flashes of colour become a carpet, there’s also a sprinkling of magic.

And it’s all the more captivating because in a fortnight or so it will all be over.

Wherever there are trees and shade, you have a good chance of finding bluebells if you’re out and about this month, but below are our favourite places to step into the fairies’ kingdom, and enjoy the best of the blues.

Inveraray Castle, Inveraray

The woodlands around the Inveraray Castle‘s well-kept estate are bursting with bluebells, and though the castle itself may be busy, you don’t have to stray far from the paths to find yourself alone with the bluebells in a shady glade.

The flowers have become such a fixture here that the town’s annual music festival (Bluebell Music Festival, Friday 27^th to Sun 29^th May) takes their name.

Around Inveraray the colour isn’t just restricted to the woodlands, look out from Loch Fyne on a good day, and you will see entire hillsides that appear to have been painted blue.

Temple Wood, Kilmartin Glen

A visit to Kilmartin Glen is bound to evoke thoughts of the past, and you feel certain that children will have been playing among the bluebells in Temple Wood for centuries.

The woodland here is most famous for its standing stone circles, thought to have appeared in their first incarnation as early as 3000 BC. They are striking anyway,  but even better when framed with blue.

It may be that the bluebells have been part of the landscape and livelihoods here since even then – it’s believed that Bronze Aged people used glue made from bluebell roots to attach the feathers to their arrows.

Bluebell Island, Dalmally

If you’re looking for solitude and carpets of uninterrupted blue, look no further.

This little island is accessible only on foot, via a (usually dry) riverbed, from the shinty field next to Dalmally Auction Mart.

The shady, tumbledown woodland is perfect for bluebell photography, particularly when shafts of sunlight brighten the glades.

The Twin Beaches, Isle of Gigha

If there’s one scene more appealing than a field full of bluebells, it’s a field full of bluebells framing a beach – or how about two beaches?

Gigha’s fabulous Achamore Gardens already make it a prime destination for anyone with an interest in horticulture, but there is less managed floral beauty to be enjoyed on the island’s twin beaches, which benefit from a breathtaking backdrop of bluebells in May.

Bridgend Woodlands, Islay

Once part of the Islay House Estate, these woodlands are known for their wild flowers all year round – also boasting magnificent snowdrops in early spring. The main entrance is a gate opposite Islay House Square. You’re guaranteed a blue-tinged feast for the eyes, whether you roam at will, or follow one of the interesting planned walks.

Travel to Coll and discover an island that’s anything but sleepy – why close your eyes when you could be gazing at the stars!

The first time you see a basking shark, you could be forgiven for believing that you have encountered something more sinister. The encroaching silhouette – three pointed shapes emerging from the sea – suggests the dorsal fins of a monstrous predator.

 

While an encounter with this giant fish, which has been mistaken for a Great White shark, may produce the instinct to run in the opposite direction, my own first sighting – on a magical evening in Hough Bay on the Isle of Coll – had the opposite effect.

The clarity of light in the Hebrides at dusk is often remarkable, and I was enjoying the sunset on the crescent-shaped beach, when three ‘fins’ (in fact the tail, dorsal fin and grotesque top jaw of a single plankton-feeding fish) emerged from the sparkling water, about 50m away.

Over the course of half-an-hour, at least eight more sharks – each around five or six metres long – appeared, until the shoal spanned the length of the bay. One of the attractions of this sparsely populated island is that an explorer can relish the scenery in solitude, but this was an experience I wish I could have shared.

A growing number of basking sharks have been sighted near the coast off the Isle of Coll – a fact that scientists attribute to the density of food in the area. The appeal of this endangered species is that you don’t have to take a ‘shark-watching’ tour to see it in its habitat, visit Coll and its neighbour Tiree between late spring and late summer and if you watch the water in calm weather, you have a good chance of seeing one from land.

One of the least-visited of the populated Hebridean islands, Coll is a three-hour ferry trip from Oban, in Argyll. The island has retained its outpost character (if you pass someone on the single-track road, it’s a requirement to wave and smile) despite regular summer ferries, and flights from Oban which mean these days it is a viable weekend destination.

Much of the island is an RSPB reserve, dedicated to the preservation of the coot-like corncrake, and the fragile coastal ecosystems in which it thrives. The society, which operates tours from its Totronald visitor centre, works with farmers to protect and increase the bird population, creating ‘corncrake corridors’ of longer grass around the fields as cover for when the migrants first arrive from Africa.

As a visitor, you might see a corncrake, but you are more likely to hear it, and you’ll know if you have – their ‘crex-crex’ call is a noise akin to long fingernails scraping a metal comb.

The wet and windy winters on Coll may be challenging, particularly when high seas prevent the lifeline ferry from docking, and the midges (though no worse than elsewhere in west Scotland) can be vicious as it gets warmer, but whatever the season, there’s plenty for outdoor enthusiasts, who can explore by bike (available to hire from An Acarsaid Gift shop) as well as on foot.

The island’s brilliantly designed village hall, An Cridhe (the Heart), is a hub for both culture and sport, and is the venue for events including the island’s bird festival, and Music Coll, a training and performance week for talented young musicians.

The island is captivating in spring, when it is carpeted striking yellow from millions of iris and daffodils; and summer, when the light evenings go on forever, and the land is tinged the red and pink of the rocks and the heather, but autumn – when most visitors have gone – is the best time to experience the drama of the coastline.

Because it has virtually no light pollution, Coll has achieved ‘Dark Sky’ status, an official confirmation that it is one of the best places in the world for stargazing (and set to be celebrated in the Coll and the Cosmos stargazing weekend this September).

It takes determination to reach Coll’s beaches, most of which are not accessible by road, but each is a treasure trove, from the tiny Gortan, in the west, where a wooden shipwreck is embedded in the sand, to Cliad, near the rough-and-ready golf course, where seals bask on the rocks and you might spot an inquisitive otter, and Breacachadh, where children can go rock-pooling in the shadow of two castles.

The beaches also present a chance for younger readers to explore the world of Katie Morag, heroine of the CBeebies TV show, and Mairi Hedderwick’s popular children’s books, which are set on Coll.

For views, the dunes and cliffs around Feall (pronounced Foil) in the west and the rocks at Sorisdale at the east end are worth a walk, but the most imposing scene is from the peak of the island’s hill, Ben Hogh, where you can make out the shapes of the Treshnish Isles, including the distinctive ‘Dutchman’s Cap’ and on a clear day can see as far as the Small Isles of Eigg, Muck, Rhum and even to Jura and Skye.

If a day out in the elements inspires you to make the most of the plentiful natural resources, it is possible to fish for your supper – freshly caught local mackerel is delicious. Or why not collect mussels? There’s some local debate about the best sites, and a curious visitor should be able to charm one of the Collachs into sharing a favourite spot.

The easy alternative to doing it yourself is a night out at one of Arinagour’s two restaurants, which both use fresh, sustainable local produce. The island’s population may only be a couple of hundred, but residents of entire cities are less fortunate in their choice of quality, affordable eateries.

The cosy Island Café (with ethical shop attached) boasts an organic, fair trade menu that can include Thai and Chinese food, as well as traditional fare. The food (which includes local Hebridean lamb) is always delicious, the fire is always lit, and the welcome is just as warm.

If you happen to have access to a helicopter, you can put in your order for dinner from the Coll Hotel, which has its own helipad overlooking the bay, and go this afternoon. It’s worth the trip, the hotel’s restaurant repeatedly wins plaudits for its seafood, but visitors are warned to leave room for the tasty desserts too.

The tiny hotel bar is also the village’s only pub, but if you’re looking for the sort of sleepy rural boozer where you can sit in a corner and enjoy your whisky, you might be in for a surprise.

This is the island’s social hub and it is often, though not always, startlingly awake. You can never be sure what turn the night will take, or who you might meet, from the volunteer fire brigade after training, to a stag party, or members of the community centre committee – and it’s not unheard of for one individual to represent all three.

There is no Tourist Information Office on Coll, and no need for one. The answer to every question you might have is available free from anyone you meet in the shop, the post office, the pier, and particularly the pub, where hospitality flows freely and conversation is compulsory. One thing is certain – you won’t be sitting in that corner for long.

Information

Travel: Trains and Citylink coaches to Oban from Glasgow run approximately three times a day. Information about flights should be available shortly. Caledonian Macbrayne (www.calmac.co.uk ) ferries to Coll are daily between March and October and otherwise three times a week, weather permitting. Coll’s petrol station is closed on Sundays, afternoons and non-boat days.

Accommodation: Coll Hotel has en-suite rooms. Tigh na Mara is the main guest house and also offers an excellent afternoon tea. Coll Bunkhouse provides hostel accommodation in Arinagour, and larger groups can also book catered hostel-style accommodation at the Hebridean Centre, home to the charity Project Trust.

Basking sharks: The Hebridean Whale and Dolphin Trust (www.hwdt.org) and Marine Conservation Society (www.mcsuk.org) conduct basking shark research and visitors are encouraged to report any sightings to one of them.

RSPB: Coll Reserve Guide

Links and information: For island news, photographs, an overview of attractions and details of self-catered cottages, B&Bs and caravans for hire, go to visitcoll.co.uk. .

From atmospheric castles to spectacular abbeys and majestic stately homes, the ancient buildings of Scotland are as integral to the country’s heritage as tartan and the bagpipes – and the West Highlands is home several of the most magical sites.

While a visit to one of the area’s celebrated structures, such as Castle Stalker, Eilean Donan Castle or Mount Stuart, will provide a memorable experience, the countryside is also home to less well known, but no less captivating buildings – each with their own charm and stories to tell.

Below, we have picked out a handful of our favourite tucked away treasures. Most, though not all, of these castles and places of worship are ruins, and while a little exploration may be necessary to reach some, others perch unobtrusively at the roadside, so you won’t even need to take a detour to see them.

Castles

Kilchurn Castle, near Dalmally

A striking ruin in a stunning setting, it is no wonder that Kilchurn is one of Scotland’s most photographed castles, though wider fame still eludes it.

Set against rolling hills at the north-east end of Loch Awe, its boasts striking views of the loch and surrounding landscape and plenty of local wildlife. The entrance is unmarked and surprisingly well concealed – which only adds to the sense of having discovered a local secret when you reach your destination.

In summer most of the castle is open, and, with climbable turrets and a huge fire place to stand in and shout up, it makes an ideal hands-on experience for families.

The fifteenth century fortress initially comprised a five story tower, built by the powerful Campbells of Glenorchy. It was adapted and added to in subsequent centuries, including in the late 1600s when it was used as a Government garrison during the Jacobite rebellion.

Find it: Though there are good views of Kilchurn from Loch Awe Village and the A819, access to the castle’s makeshift car park is marked only by two white bollards shortly after the junction for Inveraray, between Dalmally and Loch Awe on the A85. From the car park, the castle itself is a scenic walk of about a quarter of a mile.

Entry: free (site open year round, but inside only accessible from April to September)

Gylen Castle, Isle of Kerrera

A dramatic silhouette dominating the southern tip of the Isle of Kerrera, near Oban, a visit to the ruined Gylen Castle more than repays the determination it takes to reach it.

Built in 1582, the stronghold was critical for the MacDougall clan, who had it strategically positioned to overlook the southern approaches to their Oban base.

The castle was only occupied for around six decades, and was subject of a siege in 1647, when the royalist residents were defeated by covenanter forces. Though its defences could not be penetrated, the occupants eventually surrendered due to lack of water, and Gylen was burned and never occupied again.

Even before recent restorations, which have repaired the oriel window and vaulted cellar, Gylen attracted admirers, including the painter Joseph Turner, who sketched it several times during a tour of the Hebrides in 1831.

Find it: Kerrera can be reached via a two-minute trip on a small passenger ferry, departing from a slipway signed from the south of Oban (not the main CalMac ferry terminal). The castle is well signed and about an hour’s moderate walk from the island’s pier.

Entry: free

Carnasserie Castle, Kilmartin

A relative youngster compared with the prehistoric edifices and artefacts that litter the remarkable glen it overlooks, at over 400 years old, Carnasserie Castle still has a rich past to reveal.

The angular 16^th century ruin, set on a wooded hilltop just north of the Kilmartin village, was built in 1565 by the reforming protestant bishop John Carswell. It passed into the hands of local members of the Campbell clan and was blown up by the king’s forces in 1685 in response to its owners’ support for the Monmouth rebellion. Though it was not repaired, much of the structure, including the walled courtyard garden, remains intact.

The castle is notable for its accomplished architecture, particularly the ground-breaking combination of a five storey tower house and a three storey hall, and intricate masonry, with finely carved features such as the front door frame and decorated rainwater spouts worth seeking out.

Find it: Carnasserie Castle is signed two miles north of Kilmartin off the A816. The building is an uphill walk of a few minutes from the car park.

Entry: free (open year round)

Churches

St Blane’s, near Rothesay, Isle of Bute

The surrounding island may have transformed in the centuries since St Blane’s chapel was built, but you only have to glance at the sea views, towards Arran and the Holy Isle, to appreciate what inspired its founders to build a place of worship at the site.

Located in a sheltered spot at the southern tip of the Isle of Bute, the ruins of St Blane’s, some of which date back to the 1200s, are extensive and well preserved. Highlights include the nave and chancel, and a collection of Norse grave slabs.

The church, which at one point served the whole island, was built on the site of a monastery believed to date back to the 6^th century.

Find it: St Blane’s is located two miles south of Kingarth. The church is a short, well-signed walk from the car park.

Oronsay Priory, Isle of Oronsay (near Colonsay)

As remote as it is dramatic, the windswept 14^th century priory on the Isle of Oronsay was once a bustling religious centre, home to a community of monks dedicated to St Columba.

It takes something of a pilgrimage to reach the restored ruins today – when the tide is out you can walk to Oronsay from the neighbouring Isle of Colonsay – but the effort only serves to enhance appreciation of the well-preserved site, where church, cloister, chapter house and refectory remain interesting and identifiable.

An exquisitely carved medieval cross is the priory’s showpiece, with gravestones among other fine examples of the work of early masons.

Find it: Regular ferry services run to Colonsay from Oban, and neighbouring Islay. Oronsay, to the south of Colonsay, is a tidal island. Seek local advice on safe times to cross.

St Conan’s Kirk, Loch Awe

A still active local church with a remarkable history and setting, St Conan’s Kirk, on the banks of Loch Awe, is only a century old, but combines and emulates an appealing range of architectural styles.

The building was a passion project for Walter Douglas Campbell, who is said to have conceived it to provide a place of worship close to home for his mother, with whom he lived on the nearby island of Innischonan.

Its internationally influenced design grew well beyond the scope of a conventional parish church, with the steep and elaborate south side a particular foil for its creator’s imagination. Notable features include the pillars and arches of the rounded apse and aisle, the Iona-inspired window chapel, the patterned lead roof of the Cloister Garth, and gargoyles of dogs and hares on the roof.

Work on St Conan’s Kirk began in 1907, and was continued by Campbell’s sister Helen after he died in 1914. However, it was stalled by the First World War, and then by her own death in 1927, so the church was not used for worship until 1930.

Though this atmospheric building’s beauty is maintained thanks to local volunteers, it is in desperate need of renovation, particularly to the roof, exterior stonework, woodwork and ironwork. Fundraising towards these costs is underway.

Find it: St Conan’s Kirk is on the A85 in the centre of the village of Loch Awe. There is roadside parking before and after the church.

With so much space, and so few man-made constructions blocking the view, Scotland is the perfect place to cloak yourself in the wonder of a vast, beautiful sky.

While extra hours of daylight are a summer bonus here, dramatic sunsets and sunrises and star-scattered nights more than compensate for the shorter days in winter and spring, when crisp weather can mean glistening snow on the hilltops and crystal clear views.

There is something unique about the light in this part of Scotland, as local artist Jolomo explains: “The west coast and The Western Isles inspire me because of the most wonderful light – the Light of the West, I call it,” he says. “When I am painting, although I am painting the landscape, I am really painting the light on that landscape.”

Wherever you travel in this part of the world, there will be chances to catch that light, whether you chose to gaze up at the constellations or out to watch the sun set over a shimmering sea.

If you are planning to rise early to see the sun come up, you’ll need to be up around 6 am in March, and even earlier – by 5.30 am – by the end of April. The more sociably timed sunsets are between 6.30 an 7pm in March and between 8pm and 9pm in April.

Highlights for stargazers include a full moon on March 27, meteor showers around April 21, and a partial lunar eclipse on April 25.

Below are a handful of our favourite places to soak up the view.

Sunrise

Rannoch Moor and Glencoe

The journey through Glencoe is staggering at the best of times, but a pink-tinged sunrise over snow-capped peaks shows the landscape off at its most majestic. From the bleak beauty of Rannoch Moor to the imposing peaks of the three sisters, in our opinion this isn’t just one of the most impressive landscapes in Britain, it’s one of the best in the world.

Getting there: The West Highland Way footpath cuts through Glencoe, and the leg from Kingshouse to Kinlochleven is stunning at dawn (though with treacherous terrain we do not suggest setting out in complete darkness). Alternatively, drive from Tyndrum to Glencoe on the A82 towards Fort William. There are plenty parking spots along the route for photography breaks, with a particularly grand vista at the Achallader view point.

Duncan Ban MacIntyre’s monument, Dalmally

This granite monument to a gaelic bard presents terrific views across Loch Awe to the Pass of Brander. Follow in Queen Victoria’s footsteps to gain your own inspiration – and perhaps compose a spot of verse – as you gaze over Kilchurn Castle to the sacred islands where generations of Clan Campbell chiefs have been lain to rest.

Getting there: Take the A85 to the village of Dalmally and head towards the railway station. From the top of the village the path up to the monument is signed – it’s about a half hour walk, or you can drive most of the way and just walk the final mound.

Sunset

Ganavan: Although only a short walk from Oban, this beach feels a world away from the bustling town centre and a stroll (perhaps with your fish and chips) is the perfect way to finish off an evening out in town. Watch the boats come and go as you gaze out to the silhouettes of the islands beyond.

Getting there: Ganavan is signed from the Corran Halls roundabout in Oban – follow the coast road on foot or by car, passing the cathedral and Dunollie castle.

Iona Abbey: Watching the glow of sunset from this place of pilgrimage is a rewarding spiritual experience, whatever your faith. Head for one of the beaches on the west of the island for the best views out to sea.

Getting there: You can reach Iona via a ten-minute ferry crossing from Fionnphort on the Isle of Mull (see www.calmac.com for timetables) or on an organised tour.

Stargazing

Kintyre: The West Kintyre coast is one of the best places in Europe to go stargazing, and one of few where the Milky Way can be seen with the naked eye. The area has been designated a Dark Sky Discovery Site, thanks to the lack of light and air pollution – the land mass of the Kintyre peninsula shields the coast from the bright lights of Glasgow.

Getting there: Take your pick of the beautiful beaches on the A83, including the world famous Machrihanish Bay. The village of Bellochantuy is home to the west Kintyre stargazers, who hold events in the Putechan Hotel (see www. westkintyrestargazers.weebly.com).

Kilmartin Glen: The ancient monuments and standing stones of Kilmartin are a reminder that the sun, moon and the stars have been revered here for millennia – erected over 4,000 years ago, their construction was thought to have been governed by solar and lunar events. Today, the flat glen landscape still makes a great stargazing destination.

Getting there: Take A816 to Kilmartin from either Oban or Lochgilphead and follow local signs. Go to Dunadd Hill Fort to overlook the glen, or walk out to the Temple Wood standing stones, lie on your back beneath them and look up – though you might want to take a blanket to avoid the sheep dung.