With its romantic lochside location, striking conical turrets and elegant arched windows, Inveraray castle could be the setting for a Disney fairytale, though in fact its most recent claim to fame is on the small screen, as the location for 2012’s Downton Abbey Christmas special.

The Grantham’s visit to the stately home, which appeared in the ITV drama as the fictional Duneagle Castle, featured its impressive armoury hall and lavish state dining room, but while the script placed Lady Cora and her peers in these grand spaces, the real lady of the house, Eleanor, the Duchess of Argyll, is as likely to be found below stairs working in the castle tea room.

A granite mansion set on the shores of Loch Fyne, Inveraray castle is the seat of the Campbell clan, and the estate the town of Inveraray was built to serve. There has been a fortress on the site for at least six centuries, with the current building started in 1746, though it has been devastated by fire and restored twice since.

While there is much to see in the gothic-style main castle, the basement tea room, with its black and white floor tiles and original vaulted ceilings, has a distinctive, simpler character, as well as its own laundry-maid ghost. Light floods in through the high windows, and the wooden furniture and wood-burning stove create a country kitchen feel (though not many country kitchens can boast a giant Jolomo painting on the wall.)

It’s hard to pinpoint whether it is down to the duchess’ involvement, but this castle tearoom has far more heart, and is better value than your average cafe attached to a tourist attraction. Crucially, it serves good, well-presented food, in which the owners take interest and pride.

“I’m very fussy about where we get our ingredients from and like to have as much local and Scottish produce as we can,” says the duchess.

“Argyll is an amazing part of the world for ingredients and we like to shout about it. We have salmon from Inverawe, Mull cheddars, Arran cheeses and ice creams, and local ham. All our baking is either in house or from within a handful of miles.”

The family who live in and run Inveraray Castle are hands on in their approach to opening their home, and when it comes to the tea room, there’s an extra appeal in speculating if the Duke of Argyll really did devise the Duke’s Special hot chocolate (apparently a favourite with his three children) or if one of today’s cakes was baked by the Duchess. That extra chocolatey millionaire shortbread perhaps.

Info: Inveraray Castle Tea room, open daily, from Easter to October. Tea room visitors do not need to pay castle entry fees, though there is a parking charge (redeemable in the tea room or gift shop).

Getting there: Take the A82 from Glasgow to Loch Lomond, then the A83 to Inveraray.

Tea tip: Earn your cuppa, or exercise it off, with a steep walk up to the Dun na Cuaiche watchtower. Signed from the castle grounds, it offers beautiful views of the estate and surrounding landscape.

This review was first published on the HeraldScotland website in 2013. Updates have been made since.