Easdale & Seil

Even the harbour walls in the village of Ellenabeich are made from slate, a testament to the influence that this roofing material has had on the heritage of a remarkable corner of Argyll.

A former mining settlement on the Isle of Seil, south of Oban, the village is the best known destination in the archipelago of slate islands that also includes Luing, Easdale and Belnahua, and was once the centre of Scotland’s thriving slate mining industry.

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Though that industry’s heyday ended a century ago, thanks partly to community efforts to share local history, the islands continue to attract visitors from around the world.

In Ellenabeich, a disused crane stands like a sculpture on the waterfront, and white workers’ cottages frame the harbour, finding new purpose providing services for visitors (one is the Slate Island’s Heritage Centre, others are shops and a cafe).

The deep pools of the former quarries remain, though they are filled with saltwater, their original function giving way to a fresh, sea-sculpted beauty.

To get to Seil, head south from Oban and you will see signs for the humped Atlantic Bridge, which links the island to the mainland, crossing about 20 metres of the ocean. Though today larger bridges such as the Skye Bridge cross parts of the Atlantic too, this one, built in 1793, was the first.

The slate islands and surrounding waters are a haven for nature, benefiting from the Gulf Stream and strong tidal conditions, and golden eagles, otters and dolphins are among the creatures visitors can hope to spot, especially on wildlife watching boat trips.

Seil’s proximity to the Gulf of Corryvreckan, between Scarba and Jura, also makes it a popular starting point for trips to see the Corryvreckan whirlpool, the world’s third largest whirlpool and an awe-inspiring sight.

On Seil’s neighbouring island of Easdale you can journey further into the slate industry’s past. The quiet island is accessible via a three-minute open-air passenger ferry. Cars are not allowed, and colourful wheelbarrows lying outside the houses indicate the alternative methods locals use to transport their shopping from the boat.

Though the island only has a few permanent residents, it is internationally famous as the home of the World Stone Skimming Championships, which take place in a disused quarry every Autumn.

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Visit at any other time of year and you can still head to the beach to pick up a slate pebble to test your throw, follow the footpath past seven disused quarries, or visit the eclectic folk museum to learn about the Easdale’s history, and perhaps uncover the story of its ghostly island neighbour, Belnahua, which has been deserted since the First World War.

Getting there: Easdale and Seil are signed west about ten miles south of Oban on the A816