Inveraray has always been a town of contrasts. From its early days the castle has played host to the influential and the aristocratic, while just a few hundred metres away, in the local jail, the undesirables of Argyll society were serving out their sentences in bleak conditions.

Today, grand banquets may be less frequent at the castle, and only willing volunteers are imprisoned in the jail, but both buildings maintain a place at the heart of the town.

Inveraray is one of Scotland’s oldest planned towns, built mostly in its current form in the late 18^th century to accommodate the Duke of Argyll’s estate workers and a growing local herring industry.

Contrasts here are visual as well as historical. The famous white waterfront buildings stand out against the ever-changing backdrops of sky and Loch Fyne, while the surrounding countryside boasts a floral colour palette with a new tone each season – from carpets of white snowdrops to bright yellow daffodils, then rhododendrons and bluebells.

Inveraray is home to some colourful gardens too, from the immaculate flower beds outside its seafront homes, to the expanses of azalea at the nearby Crarae and Ardkinglas estates.

The town has captured more than its share of imaginations, inspiring writers like local hero Neil Munro, who based his Para Handy seafaring tales here, novelist Iain Banks, and the producers of the TV show Downton Abbey, who chose Inveraray Castle as the setting for their 2012 Christmas Special.

Echoes of Inveraray’s murkier past have become part of its attraction. In the 1800s, Inveraray Jail housed all manner of offenders, from convicted killers to children caught stealing apples, in damp, cramped cells bleakly positioned on the water’s edge.

Today, the jail is a living museum where costumed actors tell stories of former inmates and visitors can try out punishments and experience the excitement of a trial in the courtroom.

Inveraray Castle, the home of Clan Campbell and the current Duke of Argyll, had already seen its fair share of drama, including two devastating fires and a royal battle, before the ITV crew came calling.

Today, its unusual armoury hall creatively displays an extensive collection of weapons, from the 16^th century on, including the handle of outlaw Rob Roy’s dagger. More sedate highlights are the extravagantly decorated state dining room and the tapestry drawing room, and the well-cared-for gardens.

Perched on a hilltop high above Loch Fyne and visible, if only as an enticing outline, from most directions, the Dun na Cuaiche watchtower is the stone guardian of Inveraray.

The 18^th century viewpoint is a relatively short, though challenging walk from Inveraray Castle car park, and provides an aerial outline of the highlights of the Fyne Valley – the town, castle, celebrated bell tower and loch can all be seen from the shelter.

You can still find echoes of the once booming fishing industry at Inveraray Pier, where the Artic Penguin Schooner and the Vital Spark Puffer – named after the boat in the Para Handy stories and used in the filming of the TV series – are moored.

There is more living history a few miles south at Auchindrain, a farming township that has been meticulously and appealingly preserved.

Head north-east from Inveraray town and you reach Cairndow, a scenic hamlet that is home to a handful of interesting shops and enterprises, including the celebrated Loch Fyne Oyster Bar and Farm Shop.

At the very tip of Loch Fyne is Ardkinglas, the stately home and estate that includes Ardkinglas Woodland Garden, home to the magical recently-opened Gruffalo Trail (a guaranteed hit with young families), and a remarkable collection of plants and ‘champion’ trees including some of the oldest and tallest trees in Britain – flourishing still thanks to careful management and its sheltered position on the banks of this beautiful loch.

Getting there: From Glasgow take the A82 towards Crianlarich, then at Arrochar take the A83 towards Campbeltown. Citylink coaches to Inveraray leave Buchanan bus station in Glasgow (six daily, 1hr 45).