Oban

Take a few minutes to walk along Oban’s vibrant seaside promenade and you gain an instant sense of the variety this historic town has to offer.

From the bustling train station and ferry port, head west to browse a colourful assortment of boutiques and galleries, and stop to sample the fresh local produce from the selection of coffee shops and restaurants.

Keep walking for a flavour of Oban after hours, from traditional pubs to a cinema, ceilidh house and concert hall – there is a good chance of live entertainment on any day of the week.

As you reach the outskirts and the noises of the hub begin to fade, you appreciate just what sets this town apart, for while there is plenty to do and see in the centre, within moments of it you can leave the hubbub completely behind.

Beautiful churches, gardens and castles, scenic trails, and a sandy beach are yours to explore – all with the captivating backdrop of Oban Bay, and the outline of the Hebrides beyond.

History

The stately black and white ferries that glide across the bay give a sense of the town’s ongoing significance as first or last respite on a journey to Scotland’s farthest flung corners.

Oban recently celebrated its bicentenary, marking the achievements of an era in which it has been a trading post, a starting point for great expeditions and battles, a vibrant cultural melting pot, and the chosen leisure destination of royalty and dignitaries, from Queen Victoria to Felix Mendelsohn.

The community grew up around a whisky distillery which opened in 1794 and is still operational. With fishing and farming growing contributors to the local economy, it was raised to a ‘burgh of barony’ (a town recognised, but not owned, by the crown) by royal charter in 1811.

Known as the ‘gateway to the isles,’ Oban’s development is intrinsically linked to its role as a traveller’s hub, and the arrival of a railway, and steamships, both in the 19th century, brought visitors – including Queen Victoria – and an economic boost.

In 1897, local banker John Stuart McCaig, commissioned work on Oban’s most prominent landmark, now known as McCaig’s Tower. The circular granite structure which overlooks the town cost him £5000, and was initiated partly as a means of using Argyll granite and keeping local stonemasons in work.

Oban confirmed its strategic importance in the Second World War, when it played a vital role in the Battle of the Atlantic, now remembered at the tiny but captivating War and Peace Museum in the old Oban Times building on the seafront.

Though the modern town’s status as the unofficial capital of the west Highlands is relatively recent, there has been activity along the surrounding coastline since prehistoric times, with the region a stronghold for both the MacDougall and Campbell clans.

Head out of town past St Columba’s Cathedral and the town’s War Memorial and you will come to the ivy-covered ruins of Dunollie castle, an historic stronghold for the MacDougalls that remains in the family of the one-time Lords or Lorne today. It neighbours the 1745 house, a museum and cultural centre that recently opened in the former servant quarters of the MacDougall’s 18th century home.

A few miles from Oban’s centre is the village of Dunbeg, accessible by foot and cycle path, as well as by road. Here, another coastal stronghold, the 13th century Dunstaffnage Castle, overlooks the Firth of Lorne. If you want to know what’s happening beneath the waves though, visit the family-friendly Ocean Explorer Centre, signed from the same car park.

Oban is popular with artists and performers and its venues often attract better-known names than their intimate space might lead you to expect, with musicians including KT Tunstall, Phil Cunningham and Aly Bain, and the comedians Ed Byrne and Kevin Bridges, among those who have recently appeared.

The Corran Halls has a varied programme of shows, from ballet to stand-up, and Skippinish Ceilidh House is a good place to head if you want a truly Scottish music and dance experience. Oban Phoenix cinema shows a varied programme of new and classic films.

At weekends there is live music in many of the bars, best enjoyed after fish and chips on the seafront, or a hearty meal (perhaps of local scallops or a lobster) in one of the restaurants overlooking the bay. The fresh sea food in Oban is world class, though with a range of international restaurants there are plenty of other choices on the menu.

For families, Oban has a swimming pool, climbing wall and soft play facilities, and children might enjoy a spot of boat-spotting – as well as the regular Caledonian MacBrayne ferries, Oban plays host to some magnificent tall ships, ex-herring drifters, cruise liners, and occasionally the Waverley paddle steamer.

If you would rather be at sea than looking it, there are plenty of excursions on offer, from plane trips to wildlife watching cruises.

Whether you are a novice or were born wearing waterproofs, there are plenty of options in the Oban area for lovers of the outdoors, from climbing, windsurfing, diving and kayaking, to fishing, walking and golf.

Line up your shot with a backdrop of the Isle of Jura, explore an eerie wreck beneath the still waters of Loch Linnhe, or paddle your vessel to a bluebell strewn island. While the weather is never reliable, the spectacular setting is absolutely guaranteed.

Getting there: From Glasgow, take the A82 towards Crianlarich, then the A85. Trains from Glasgow to Oban leave Glasgow Queen Street.

Links: www.oban.org.uk www.obantowndiary.co.uk www.obanmuseum.org.uk

Kerrera

The island of Kerrera is so close to Oban that you can almost touch it, and can be reached via a short ferry trip. It is well worth exploring, with its distinctive geology, wild goats, and the stunning Gylen castle. It has a tea room, restaurant and bunkhouse, and at just three miles long can be seen in a day via the footpath that loops the coastline.